Perennials
Clematis is not a demanding plant but it has afew specific requirements; it needs cool roots and a trellis. Should be planted in well-drained soil, with a minimum depth of 6” or 15 cm deep. We suggest that you make a trench 12” or 30 cm deep, plant the clematis at the bottom, and as it grows over the summer fill in the trench.
Clematis is susceptible to disease that enters thought the stem either from breakage or working around the stems.
Clematis needs to be planted so that the roots are cool, and the tops are in the sun. When planted against a house or fence the trellis should be constructed in such away that it can be let down to paint. It can also be planted beside a tree or shrub, they will not strangle the host plant, the shrub or tree act as a natural trellis.
Clematis needs four or more hours of sunlight to do well. Because of our hot summers, they do best in a part shade, an east side or a bright north exposure. Pastel coloured varieties have more intense colour if grown in a shade location.
A Clematis, that is happy can live and bloom for many years.
Young plants in their first and second year of growth should not be allowed to dry out at any time. A large plant can use 1 gallon of water a day in hot weather. They do best with a good soaking every two to three days. Clematis eventually produces an extensive root system and the surrounding soil can dry out.
Clematis will do well with a weekly feeding of Miracle-Gro 15-30-15 or 10-52-10 when the plant is actively growing.
How to prune clematis is the most asked question in gardening. Incorrect pruning will not kill the plant only delay blooming. If left unpruned they will still bloom but not as profusely.
The first year after planting at the end of March or the beginning of April, all clematis should be cut back. You should leave two sets of buds on each stem between the cut and soil level.
Clematis is divided into three pruning categories.
Group A: these varieties flower only on old wood. Because of winter freezing they do not do well in our climate. Prune as soon as they finish blooming. Group A clematis are not recommend for our zone.
Group B is divided in two sub groups:
- Varieties that flower on old wood. Will have a heavy flush of blooms in May to June on previous years growth followed by a second flush in August or September on the new growth.
- Varieties that bloom on both old and new wood. Bloom from June to September non-stop.
Prune only to balance the plant. Remove any weak or dead wood. A severe pruning will reduce the number of flowers but produce a better-balanced plant the following year. If Group B clematis has been neglected for many years it can be rejuvenated by severely cutting back the old growth.
Group C: This group only bloom on current year's growth. It blooms non-stop from spring to fall.
Plants should be cut back to two sets of bud on each stem in late March or early April. This will produce a plant that blooms from the ground up. If left unpruned, it will quickly grow out of control. This group of clematis's growth continues where the old growth left off.
When buying clematis find out, which group it, belong too.
Watch for slugs in the spring they like the new shoots. You can use slug bait around the base of the plant to prevent damage.
Lily bulbs are never completely dormant so they must be planted as soon as possible. If for some reason you are unable to plant your bulbs immediately, keep them refrigerated until you can plant them. Store them in a poly bag in slightly damp peat moss in the crisper of the fridge.
Location: It is important to choose the right location. Lilies require direct sunlight for part to all of the day. They also require "Well Drained Soil". A medium sandy loam soil with a reasonable amount of humus is ideal. Peat moss can also be added. Heavy soils can be amended with course sand and peat moss; we do not recommend the use of manure (old or new). Lilies make a nice show if they are planted in triangular groups of three bulbs of the same variety, spaced 12"-18" apart and to a depth of 4"-6".
Watering: It is important to thoroughly water your bulbs in after planting to ensure the soil settles in around the roots. They do not require daily watering but when watering be sure to water deeply enough to reach the bulb. Avoid wetting the leaves. Excessive watering will cause your bulb to rot.
Fertilizing: A light to moderate fertilizer (20-20-20) can be applied just before flowering and after blooming is completed to keep bulbs healthy.
Labelling: it is wise to mark each bulb planted with a stake and a weather resistant marker, so as not to damage the lily shoots in the spring when working around your lily bulbs.
Fall Care: Do not remove or cutback the spent stalks until complete dieback has occurred in the fall or it could weaken the bulb. The fall is also the best time to divide your clumps of lilies. This should be done about every 4-5 years.
NOTE: Orientals, Trumpet and Aurelian-Asiatic can be grown in the prairies but it takes a little more effort on your part of amending the soil and providing heavier winter protection of straw, leaves and peat moss. These large beautiful scented flowers that bloom late summer will be well worth the extra effort needed. For this reason we do not offer replacements for failure to grow on these varieties.
A perennial may be defined as an herbaceous plant that lives for three year or more. Perennials are considered low maintenance plants because you do not have to plant them every year, but they still need to be moved, divided and weeded.
A perennial garden needs more planning then an annual garden because each perennial has a different bloom time. Perennials do not have to be planted in a bed by themselves, they can be mixed with annuals, bulbs, small shrubs and evergreens. Space is the limiting factor when planning a perennial border. A little variety is the most popular.
Having annuals interspaced among perennials guarantees that you have plants blooming all summer.
When choosing the site plan, plan how you are going to water it. Is the wind going to harm tall plants? Choose plants for their size, habit, colour of flower, and time of bloom. The more variety you have, the more interesting your bed will be. By planting perennials in odd groups gives the border more character than planting in rows. Make a blue print of what you want by planning first on paper so you can avoid problems.
The first fertilizer used should be a plant starter type; something with a bigger middle number. When plants are growing, then use 20-20-20. Remember never to fertilize dry plants, this will cause burning.
The following chart is to help you plan. 
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Contact Info
1 mile west of Lewvan Drive on 13th Ave.
Regina, SK
306.525.1352
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